Fuji X100T Camera Settings for Photography
My Fujifilm X100T Camera settings for photographing everything
Now that I have been shooting with my Fujifilm X100T for just under a year, I have finally settled on camera settings that suit the way I work. What you’ll find below is a comprehensive list of all the settings on my X100T with some comments about why I have them set that way.
Although speed and responsiveness are big factors in my shooting I tend to favor the amount of keepers and by keepers i mean photos are that are pinpoint sharpness for their application. I also still want adjustability of my settings like ISO, Shutter speed Etc to take a photo as fast as I can.
I usually shoot in Manual with Fuji's auto-ISO 3200 or below with auto white balance selected.
Most of the time i have the camera set to manual on the side slider of the camera with back button focus so i can lock a point for focus this makes the camera lightning fast regardless of what shutter speed or aperture the camera is set to.
Sometimes I’ll adjust exposure compensation to brighten or darken the image in challenging lighting.
The X100T for it's size is a smart camera.
I shoot RAW all of the time as i enjoy rendering and processing the fuji X100T Files. Even though i was on food photography gig once with the camera set to jpeg only the files that came out after processing are breath taking compared to other industry leading cameras
Focus Area: Largest.
The X100T focuses fastest when the focus area is set to the largest. It’s not as accurate as smaller areas, but 8 out of 10 shots are just as pin point accurate as if i was using smaller zones.
Release/Focus Priority for AF-S: Focus.
This is my default AF mode. I want AF to lock when I half-press the shutter and before I take the photo.
Instant AF Setting: AF-S.
This the AF mode to use when back-button focusing, which is pressing the AE/AF button while the camera is set to manual auto-focus.
AF Mode: Area.
I want to select the AF area manually. I don’t want the camera to decide the focus point for me.
Face Detection: NOPE
I leave face detection off when I want to focus on faces, I just shoot directly with a focus point on the face, no brainer.
AF Illuminator: Off.
Corrected AF Frame: On.
This is absolutely necessary when shooting with the optical viewfinder. It basically shows you the parallax offset of the AF frame.
I like to keep my default settings fairly neutral for more natural-looking images. Fuji’s Standard/Provia film simulation looks great on its own, and I can always tweak in post later.
- Provia film simulation Most of the time but occasionally Classic Chrome
- Auto-ISO: base 200, limit 3200, minimum shutter speed 1/125. (I really wish I could select a faster minimum shutter speed.)
- Dynamic range 100.
- Color 0, sharpness -2 (i prefer to control this in post), highlight, shadow all at 0.
- Noise reduction -2. I like to control NR in post. I’d rather turn it off, but that’s not an option.
- Auto white balance. It works fine most of the time.
Custom BW Settings
When I want to focus purely on B&W images, I’ll use a custom B&W Lightroom or photoshop preset from The Pixel Forum tweaking slightly to suit my needs in post
Function Button Settings
I love that I can customize nearly all of the buttons on the X100T to suit the way I work. Here’s what I have configured for the function buttons:
- Fn1: ISO.
- Fn2: Focus point selection.
- Fn3: Macro.
- Fn4: White balance.
- Fn5: Conversion lens.
- Fn6: ND filter.
- Fn7: WiFi.
Focus point, Macro & ND Filter are the Main three i use religiously and its great to have that customisable functionality to quickly react to shooting.
Display Custom Settings
I have the display settings configured almost exactly the same for both optical and electronic viewfinders. This is just a consistency thing for me. Specific items I’ve turned on are as follows:
I like seeing the Rule of Thirds guides (Grid 9) to aid in framing and alignment.
AF Distance Indicator.
I like knowing how far the focus point is. This is especially important with the OVF, because I can tell in an instant if the focus distance is off.
MF Distance Indicator.
In lieu of having a distance scale on the lens (I’m old school that way), I use the digital distance indicator in the viewfinder for zone focusing shots.
Definitely have to know my exposure settings.
Give me that exposure comp info!
Very rarely use off camera flash, so not really fussed about it.
My white balance is set to auto, so knowing it is completely irrelevant to me even if i am doing some sort of astro photography.
Post processing is great at bringing that information back regardless.
I use SD cards between 8gb all the way up to 32gb, I have never had a SD Card fail but i do regularly format my cards every photography job i do i will format the night before i tend to use the smaller 8gb cards for photography Jobs. 32gb sd cards are more like a just-in-case for long weekends away or holidays.
Anyone who uses Fujifilm cameras understands the necessity of seeing what your battery level is, however be warned it is the equivalent of the iPhones Last 1% battery - Temperamental and nerve wrecking.
Please FUJI give us more juice or a more accurate indicator for the love of god!
I use the Q-menu occassionaly. I played with various configurations for a few months but found that I only used a few spots on a regular basis. I left all blocks assigned, because I was too lazy to remove them.
Usually what happens is screen brightness will either go up or down depending on conditions of whether or not i can see the screen but if everything is ok its usually set to 0.
Other Shooting Settings
Here are a bunch of other settings that don’t necessarily affect the images so much as the shooting experience. A lot of people don’t touch these settings. I like to understand how everything works and adjust a camera to suit the way I want it to work. I’m picky.
- Long exposure noise reduction off.
- MF assist: Peak. I change this frequently from the Q-menu to suit the situation.
- AE/AF-Lock Mode: On when pressing.
- AE/AF-Lock Button: AE lock only.
- Interlock Spot AE and Focus Area: On.
- Red Eye Removal: Off.
- Save Original Image: On.
- Flash Compensation: never use the built-in flash.
- Shutter Type: Mechanical + Electronic. I’ll change this depending on the shooting conditions. Usually, leaving it as M+E is totally fine.
- Sounds: Off. Digital camera sounds are annoying. However do make an appearance when shooting with a model so they have some indication to whats going on.
- Image Display: Off. I don’t like images popping up on screen after every shot. It’s distracting.
- Preview Exposure in Manual Mode: On most times. Off when I use OCF.
- Framing Guidelines: Grid 9.
- Focus Scale Units: Meters.
- Auto Power Off: 5 minutes.
- OVF Power Save Mode: Off.
- High Performance: On.
Part of the joy of shooting with the X100T is I don’t need to bring a lot of extra crap with me. Most of time I just carry the camera around in my coat. The only other accessory i have goes in my other empty jacket pocket when it is not on the Fuji X100T
- WCL-X100 wide-angle converter lens.
A big thank you If you’ve made it this far, congrats on reading yet another article on how to setup a Fuji X100T
The bottom line is if you’ve left the camera at its default settings, you’d be just fine. The X100T would work perfectly well as a glorified point-and-shoot.
I wouldn’t recommend customising your camera right off the bat. I think its good to get to know your camera and spend some time using your camera every day to figure out how you work. Build that relationship up with your camera and work flow by paying attention to the things that feel good and the things that don’t.
Learn what everything does and start tweaking settings to your heart’s content.